MOTHER BOARD & COMPRESSOR + ALK STICK
OPTIONAL EXTRA FILTERS (1 = $50) (2 = $80) (3 = $110) (4 = $130)
WATER COOLER “NOT COOLING”
COULD BE 1 OFF 3 THINGS LISTED BELOW
1. COMPRESSOR SWITCH
1. SEE HOW OLD YOUR MACHINE IS
On the back of your water coolers they is a grey sticker. The numbers are green the first 2 number are the year the water cooler was purchased
If older than 2006 – spare parts are rare...
Check if compressor kick’s in
Turn off your machine for more than 3 minutes, then turn back of with the cool snowflake BLUE button, listen for the compressor to kick in they will be a slight noise like a fridge turning on, can take up to 2-3 minutes your screen should have BLUE triangle grid with a small blue snowflake in the left corner of grid, just above the temperature display panel. You can also place your hand against the right side where the compressor is and you can feel compressor starting.
IF you do not hear a clicking noise the compressor clicking in, then this needs to be replaced
If digital display had faded due to sunlight you can use your hand to cup shade to see screen
This is located at the back of the water cooler, behind the grilled bars. USE a torch to see easier.
Check if damaged or signs that it has burnt out.
Remove bottle set of water cooler.
Unscrew 2 x screws located at the back of water cooler
Remove the lid, with a slight wiggle to loosen if needed
Remove Lid, ensuring wires stay in place
They is a metal box unscrew 2 x screws (back of machine)
IF no box earlier modules <2006 (rare parts)
Check for signs of damage on motherboard. (Black burns)
Check front and back.
IF burnt out or damage this needs to be replaced.
Check Didgiboard via the back of lid
For any signs of burnt out or damage
IF signs of damage to the Didgiboard needs replacing
Bench Top & Older Freestanding models (yellow and white plug) 2 pin
Newer Freestanding models with fridge (red, white, and yellow plugs) 3 pin temp control